This is an edited version of my weekly column for Loose Wire Service, a service providing print publications with technology writing designed for the general reader. Email me if you’re interested in learning more.
Sometimes it takes something like an earthquake to realize that you’re vulnerable.
Once the ground stops shaking and you’ve begun to sense that your life — and those of your loved one(s) — are not in imminent danger, your thoughts turn to the next most important thing in your world: Your data.
Well, of course, that may not be your exact train of thought, but it’s the general direction. So much of our lives are digital these days — e-mails, music, photos, social lives — the first thing we tend to clutch when we’re in trouble is our cell phone/laptop/external disk drive.
Or at least it should be. So what should you prepare for when things go wrong and you need to evacuate, pronto?
Here, in brief, is how to do it:
Whatever can be online, should be. E-mails, for example, should be on something like Google’s Gmail (or Yahoo!, who have launched a new e-mail service that’s at least as generous in terms of storage as Google’s.)
This doesn’t mean you can’t also keep your e-mails on your own computer, but make sure they are also online. Get in the habit of e-mailing important documents to yourself, as well, so you’ve got an extra copy online.
This means you can evacuate in a relaxed state of mind. Well, as relaxed as you can be fleeing a building that is burning/falling/swaying/no longer strictly speaking a building.
Same goes with photos: Get in the habit of uploading your favorite photos to an online photo album service like Flickr (www.flickr.com), because if there’s one thing you don’t want to lose it’s family snaps.
Sign up for the Pro edition if you’ve got the cash and a fast(ish) Internet connection, since at US$25 a year for unlimited storage it’s a reasonably cheap way of backing up.
Add photos incrementally: Just get into the habit of uploading photos to your Flickr account when you upload them from your camera/cellphone to the computer (I’m assuming you do this; you do do this, right?)
Of course, online options are only good if you’re online. And, tellingly, I’m not right now because there’s a problem with the Internet — and quite a big problem, since even my trusty backup connection is down — so you shouldn’t rely exclusively on connectivity.
(The other problem is that as more of us go digital, we can’t hope to store everything online, because there’s so much of it. Our iPods store 60 GB or more these days, which is still impractical to back up online.)
In which case you need to have a hard drive backup. There are several ways of doing this, but here’s the best one: Back up everything on all the PCs and laptops in your house to one big external drive the size of hardback book, which you can then grab as you exit the building in an orderly manner.
Here’s how to do that:
Maxtor offer a pretty reasonable range of backup hard drives — the cheapest are really just hard drives in a plastic casing (good to prevent damage: hard drives are not as tough as they pretend to be.)
Expect a whopping 500 gigabyte drive to cost you less than $200. Attach the drive to a USB port and you’ve now got a seriously large drive attached to your computer.
Then buy a program called Acronis True Image ($50 from here) and make a backup image of all the computers in your house.
(An image is a sort of snapshot of your computer. It’s faster than backing up individual files, but will still allow you to restore individual files or folders if you need to.)
It’s a little tricky to set up but you’ll get the hang of it, since you’re going to be backing up once a week. (Yes, you are.)
If you think this is too much for you and that the only data you really need to save are a few documents, then get a USB flash drive (those little sticks you can put on a key ring.)
Prices have fallen to the point where they’re a cheap option now for up to four gigabytes. I would recommend the SanDisk Cruzer micro, not only because they don’t have removable caps (which always get lost) but because they include software that make backing up important files easy. (Stick the drive in a USB slot and follow the instructions.)
A word of warning: Think hard about what data you’ve got and what you want to save. It’s easy to forget stuff hidden in an obscure folder.
Get into the habit of saving important files — whether they’re attachments, photos, spreadsheets or whatever — into the same folder. It’ll make finding them to back them up much easier and quicker.
Oh, and try not to wait until the building is swaying/filled with smoke/has moved down the street before actually doing the backing up.
Trust me: You can’t count on thinking as clearly as you might expect.
The Jakarta Post – The Journal of Indonesia Today
If you have a Seagate or Maxtor drive, you don’t need to buy the Acronis software. Maxtor’s MaxBlast software, a free download from Maxtor, is actually a *free* private-label version of Acronis’ backup software (when you start it up, it says “Powered by Acronis”). There is also a similar free download for Seagate drives (Seagate owns Maxtor).
MaxBlast works with Maxtor/Seagate drives (you’ll need at least one of your drives to be from Maxtor/Seagate to install MaxBlast), but it will also work with other drives if at least one of the drives is a Maxtor/Seagate drive.
I have several older Maxtor drives that I have put in USB enclosures and I am able to use MaxBlast to “image” my non-Maxtor laptop drive to my “portable” Maxtor drive. It works very well.
Btw, here’s where you can get the Seagate/Maxtor (“Acronis”) software:
Seagates’s version is called DiscWizard and Maxtor’s is called MaxBlast. It’s listed as “installation” software. It let’s you add a new disk, clone a disk, image a disk and restore the image, and mount/unmount an image (so you can access backed up files without actually having to restore a backup).
It also looks like it will work with any disk once it’s installed — not just Seagate/Maxtor drives. I just performed an operation on my laptop (with non-Maxtor drives) and it worked fine. It just wants to “see” a Seagate/Maxtor drive upon installation (and apparently one attached via USB is adequate). Once it’s installed, it appears to work with any manufacturer’s drive (at least, the current version does, anyway).
Scott, thanks for this. Great tip.